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Review

Mfg.: Vintage Fighter Series 2404

Subject: P-47D-25 Thunderbolt

Scale: 1/24th   

Parts: unpublished, about 400

Type of kit: Injection molded WWII radial engine fighter

 

This kit is a welcome surprise as there have not been any new tool

large scale P-47 kits as of about 1968.

This has been changed as three different companies have released

large new tool P-74s. The largest of these is the Vintage Fighters

Series 1/24th scale P-47D-25. The model represents one of the most

important fighters of WWII. The type 25 was used by many of the

op aces of WWII and due to its survivability they lived to tell about

their encounters. The P-47 was a huge aircraft and with four .50 Caliber

machine guns and P&W Wasp R2800 radial engine it also was the

most powerful.

 

The kit is in a huge box as the kit in this scale is very large. The box

shows the different schemes that come in the kit, six in all, and has

nice box art. Upon opening the box the size of the kit is apparent

with two fuselage halves measuring over a foot and that’s not even

with the tail or cowling on yet! The parts and well molded without

any flash and are broken down into separate components so other

versions of the aircraft can be offered at a later date. The kit gives

plenty of options like early and late cockpit floors, different styles

of propellers, different weapons and pose-able flying surfaces

(rudder etc.). There is a giant decal sheet to hold all six different

decal markings. Having all six in one kit is a good idea as this

company knows not many aftermarket decal companies will be

willing to print such large sheets. The surface detail is finely

scribed with light rivet detail.

 

The instructions are clear and precise with step by step directions.

The colors are given in Federal Standard, FS numbers, so modelers

can match them to the paint manufacturer of their choice.

 

This kit looks to be a benchmark in model kit tooling as a kit this

large is prone to warping, but none was found on this kit. It takes

guts to tool a kit this size and with complex detail but they will

soon sell out guarantied as it is a well molded, accurately detailed

model of the great P-47D Thunderbolt.          

 

Review

Mfg.: Trumpeter #02247

Subject: F8F-1 Bearcat

Scale: 1/32nd  

Parts: 366

Type of kit: Injection molded post WWII radial engine fighter

 

This kit is represents an early version of Grumman’s famous post war piston engine

fighter made to replace the very successful Hellcat fighter. The introduction was too

late to be effective in the last months of the war but production continued to a little

over 700 aircraft. The Bearcat was powered by an improved version of the Wasp

R-2800 engine giving the aircraft great climb and maneuverability.

 

The kit is an early version of the Bearcat and is a first in 1/32nd scale. Included in

the kit is the multi piece R-2800 engine and is a kit in itself. Lines and rivets are well

represented and the detail is sharp. The model has a clear front cowl to show off the

Wasp engine and has a clear instrument panel that fits in a photo-etch metal panel.

The photo-etch parts also include seat belts and other fine details. The instructions

are clear and a color profile sheet is given for painting and decal placement.

 

Options include folding wind tips, open or closed canopy and removable engine panels.

Detailed machine guns are also included for the wings along with detailed gun bays.

The kit also has two different markings included, VF-19 (1947) and NAS Ohio (1951).

 

There are more options to the modeler as many Bearcats were purchased by air race

teams to fly in the Bendix trophy and Reno air races. This opens the paint schemes

up to unlimited possibilities.

 

Modelers will be happy to finally see this aircraft in this scale and Bearcat fans will

enjoy a very detailed model of this world famous fighter. Trumpeter has released

what will surely be a great selling kit and with other late versions on the way this

will continue to be a big success.

 

Review and build

Mfg.: Trumpeter #00384

Subject: German E100 super heavy tank

Scale: 1/35th

Parts: 102

Type of kit: Injection molded Theoretical German super tank from the last years of WWII

 

This kit is modeled after a late produced German secret tank project in late 1945. The only

evidence of the project was a half finished chassis based on the earlier “Maus” 100 ton tank

captured at the end of WWII by British ground troops. The turret and gun only existed on

paper. The tank was to be used as a urban building destroyer to be used on the Russian front.    

The kit represents a Henchel type turret like the king tiger and has a infra-red spotting scope

on the turret. This IR scope was being tested late in WWII by the German army. The gun is

a muzzle-less large caliber gun bigger then the king tigers 88mm. There is a set of photo-etch

grill screens for the engine deck. The parts are well molded and instructions are clear and go

step by step. This kit has less pieces than most armor kits and will make for a easy and fun

build in a week end or two.

 

Modelers will be amazed at the size of this tank even when they place it next to a king tiger.

With the nice box art, small number of parts, minimal decaling and unique subject matter

this will be a big selling kit.

Trumpeter E100 build up part 1.

Well I started the build of the Trumpeter E-100 and with the low parts count it has been

a quick build. I decided to add zimmerit to the model to add some interest and practice

on application. Who says this is wrong as the real tank only had the chassis built.

I used the Tamiya zimmerit applicator tool and Squadron putty. The putty was smoothed

on with a Squadron putty knife and quickly raked out. The putty started to dry and skin

over as I raked but this added to the look of the zimmerit as it had chips in it on the real

tanks. Once the area dried a few minutes I could patch up any flaws and clean out the

mounting holes. I added a short length of real chain on the rear of the turrets escape hatch.

I rebuilt the periscope covers on the front as the kits were not fitting.

More fun to come in part 2.                

 

Review

Mfg.: Mini Art #36004

Subject: Poland 1944 diorama

Scale: 1/35th

Parts: over 300

Type of kit: Vac-u-form diorama base and building ruins with injected molded

gun and crew.

 

This kit is a new idea in dioramas in it has a vac-u-form base and building ruins.

This makes it easier to paint than plaster or resin.

The kit represents a Russian mobile gun crew in the rubble of destroyed buildings

somewhere in Poland 1944.   

The kit has a 8”x10” base, corner of a destroyed building, Light Russian mobile gun,

five figures and building debris. The figures are very well molded and can be posed

in many positions. The gun has many parts to bring out the detail including spent

shells. The parts are flash free and well molded.  The instructions are easy to follow

with number call-outs. There is a comprehensive color guide on the instructions

showing six different manufactures of paint and their stock numbers.

This looks like a easy introduction to diorama modeling and will be useful to the

advanced modeler as well. The” diorama in a box” is a great idea in modeling.

 

Review

Mfg.: Dragon Models #6315

Subject: Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf. F1(F)

Scale: 1/35th

Parts: over 690

Type of kit: Mid production German WWII armored fighting vehicle.

 

This kit is a new version of Dragons earlier release of the late (G) model.

The Panzer IV was one of the German armies most produced armored tanks. The kit

represents the mid production (f) version with the short barrel used mid war 1942-3

on the eastern front. 

The kit has a small assortment of photo-etch parts for the engine deck. Link by link

Magic Tracks are included and with the tiny size of the links it is amazing how much

detail they have thanks to slide molding.  All parts are flash free and crisply molded.

This is almost expected of Dragons armor kits. The box is packed even though the

kit is in the “smart kit” series and should be less to build then the standard kits.  

The kit has real wire for tow cables, a modified slide molded front machine gun and

slide molded main gun with Rifling on the inside . Dragon also gives clear molded

vision “periscopes”, a must for realism.

The instructions are well drawn and show the parts not needed for this version.

Color call outs are easy to understand and there are decals for 8 different markings

in 8 different schemes including a captured Russian marked tank.  People will be

buying multiples of this kit as the variations in markings and optional parts will

keep it interesting.

Overall this kit looks like an exciting build and will be interesting in any of the

eight paint schemes.              

 

Review by Dekker Zimmerman

Mfg.: Hasegawa #JT94

Subject: Focke-Wulf Fw190-A-8

Scale: 1/48th

Parts: over 82

Type of kit: Late German WWII fighter aircraft

This kit represents a mid version of the Fw-190. The kit markings are for

“Red 19” belonging to Ernst Schroder in 1944 and “Black double chevron”

of Major Kurt Buhiglen in June 1944.

There are many versions of the Fw-190 and some would say “why another one”.

Well the Luftwaffe fans would argue there were no two Fw-190s that were alike

and this is true as most were custom painted by there pilots and ground crews .

This is why model companies like Hasegawa make so many releases of

Luftwaffe models as they know the will sell and once you know the differences

in the versions you can see how different they really are.

The kit is up to Hasegawa’s fine molding and is free of flash.  The artwork and

high quality boxing/packaging are top rate.  There are two different canopies

included, one standard and one “blown”.  The instructions are clear and include

a good history of the aircraft. Special attention was given to the markings to be

accurate and the American boxing has the Swastikas included. They even give

you the reduction ratio of the drawings so you can enlarge them to make them

1/48th scale. The instructions also tell you the modifications you can do to

accurately depict the kit to an A-8 version. The kit builds up fast and easy and

that’s good as there are plenty more versions to build.

Overall a good kit for beginners and experts alike as it is easy to assemble

and finish.     

 

Review by Dekker Zimmerman

Mfg.: Dragon Models #7070

Subject: U.S.S. Boxer LPH-4

Scale: 1/700

Parts: over 320

Type of kit: Support carrier with helicopters.

 The kit represents a support carrier from the Vietnam era and has early H-34 type

helicopters.

The kit has a cut hull so one can model it waterline or full hull. I believe all model

ships should have this feature as it gives waterline modelers less grief of cutting

the hull them selves also a plus for younger modelers. There is a good amount

of photo-etch metal parts, but no railings? The helicopters are molded in clear

plastic, again a plus and something all ship model aircraft should have for clear

windows. The ship windows and radars are also molded clear, awesome.

The ship has tons of parts including a basic detailed hanger area. This is hard to

see so they included a clear upper deck that is helpful.  Molding is very crisp.

Overall a very nice kit but it does need a paragraph on the history of the ship as

I am sure it is famous for something.

 

Review by Dekker Zimmerman

Dragon Models

Kit # 6407

Panzermeyer LSSAH Division

Scale; 1/35th

Number of parts: over 260

 Type: 4 figure set

Dragon continues with their line of Premium edition figures with this set.

The kit depicts the soldiers uniform from Mariupol 1941 and is finely molded

with some photo etch.

There are slide molded weapons in this kit and that helps from having to drill

out the tiny gun tubes ect.

The kit also comes with a mobile machine gun “wagon” and is also slide molded.

This gun is of an early type and good to see molded. There are separate stick

grenades and modified helmets with simulated padding, also a plus.

Included is a simple construction guide with detailed panting instructions with

Gunze and Testors brand paint callouts. This is helpful as not many shops carry

Gunze in the U.S. The kit is priced right also.

Overall this is a recommended kit.   

 

Review by Dekker Zimmerman

Mfg.: Dragon Models #6469

Subject: Flakpanzer 38(t) “Gepard”

Scale: 1/35th

Parts: over 540

Type of kit: Early German WWII anti aircraft armored vehicle.

 This kit is a conversion of Dragons earlier release of the 38(t).

The “Gepard was an anti-aircraft vehicle used early in WWII by Germany. Its gun

was fitted to many armored cars and tanks through the end of WWII.

The kit has a large assortment of photo-etch parts, some pre-formed. This is very

helpful in fitting them onto the model. Link by link Magic Tracks are included and

with the tiny size of the links it is amazing how much detail they have thanks to

slide molding.  All parts are flash free and crisply molded. This is almost expected

of Dragons armor kits. The box is packed and when looking at the small size of the

chassis it is hard to imagine all these pieces fitting on this kit. This means not much

is needed after market. The kit also has real wire for tow cables. Dragon also give

clear molded vision “periscopes” a must for realism.

The instructions are well drawn and show the parts not needed for this version.

Color call outs are easy to understand and there are decals for 4 different markings

in 4 different schemes.  A big plus it the model has a 2 page history and detail book

about the vehicle. I hope these are going to be in all of there kits from now on.

Overall this kit looks like a lot of to build and one that will keep you busy for a while.              

 

 

In box review of DML's 1/35th scale awesome King tiger with Zimmerit.

Manufacturer: DML

Type: Sd.Kfz.182 King Tiger Henschel turret.

Kit # 6303

Scale: 1/35

Parts count: over 700 with photo etch, brass shells, aluminum barrel, metal tow

cable and magic track.

Special feature: Molded on Zimmerit texture.

 

This is the first kit in a series from Dragon models that has molded on *zimmerit.

Dragons new "slide mold" technology  has made it possible to have this detail

molded on the model and still retain the hand applied look of zimmerit.

The kit also uses this technique to mold holow gun barrels and tow cable ends.

 

Upon opening the box it is clear why the kit is so heavy as it is packed with parts.

The first thing I noticed is the turret and main chassis and the exquisite texture.

All parts are in plastic bags and there is a special card with the photo-etch, clear parts,

decals, aluminum barrel ,metal shells and cable. This is a great idea as the card keeps

the photo-etch and decals from bending.

 

The instructions are different in that they show photos of the model parts and not just

drawings. The instructions show the options of metal parts or plastic so you can build

this kit without them. So this is a "dual kit" for beginners to advanced. There are 7 decal

options including a winter camo. Another new twist is the instructions call out Gunze color

numbers as well as Testors Model Master.

Construction look straight forward with the magic tracks taking some time to build but if

you leave the fenders off you will see the advantage of link by link track as you can mold it

to look weighted and sagging between the rollers.

 

Conclusion:

Dragon has molded this subject many times before but if you don't want to hand apply

zimmerit this is the way to go. The value for the money on this kit is incredible, about

a $50.00 kit. to give you an idea I recently bought the Tamiya T-55 for about $60.00 and

added a aluminum barrel $15.00, link by link track $35.00 and photo-etch $25.00. That's

about $135.00! Even if you don't build armor this is the kit to get you started as it will

build up big and beautiful and you can build almost the whole thing before needing

any paint. If you travel on business take a kit like this with you and get a few tools

at the local hobby shop and make those boring hotel nights enjoyable.

 

Dragon has already announced a King Tiger with Porsche turret and a Tiger 1 to be

released later this year/next year.

Defiantly a recommended kit.

If you don't like it when finished just get out the soldering iron and put a few "rounds"

in it, paint it black and put it next to your Sherman.    

DZ.

*Zimmerit: A cement like paste applied to German tanks to keep magnetic mines from sticking.

Usually raked in a striped or block pattern.

 

Trumpeter 1/144th scale Kilo Class Russian sub. Dekker Zimmerman

Well this was supposed to be a quick build but it is going slow. I decided to make it waterline to hasten

the build. Christmas day I made all the masts out of brass rod as the kit parts would become flat from

sanding the side seam. The kit is simple and easy to build but has no extras like a windshield so I will

have to build that also. Here is the progress so far.  

Update I have finished the sub! The sub was painted overall Testors flat black. I then hi-lighted the panels

with Testors gunship gray. This was sprayed on lightly as the real sub has a coating that will not fade much.

As I was painting I noticed a strange side effect. Dust was attracting to the model as I sprayed at an alarming

rate. The only reason I could find is that as I sprayed across the brass "antenna farm" it was adding static electricity

to the plastic. I decided to ground the model by taping a wire to the hull then to the metal leg of my work bench.

This seemed to work. After the paint was dry I cut a very small very thin piece of plastic for a windshield.

This with the addition of some N-scale figures painted like Russian submariners added life to a otherwise

dull subject. I then mounted it to a wood plaque and was going to add water effects to it but did not have

time before the 07' IPMS Nats in L.A. where it took 2nd place in the modern submarines category.       

 

Half track review by Rodger Cole (photos soon)

During the 1930s the United States Army decided on the need for a tracked, or semi-tracked vehicle to allow infantry and

artillery units to accompany armored units across difficult terrain. Due to the prohibitive cost of fully tracked vehicles a

semi tracked, or half-track design was sought. Among other hopefuls the Army had a tracked drive assembly added to an

existing White M2 scout car. The result was the M2 half-track. While the M2 solved the needs of the artillery for a prime mover

for guns, the infantry needed a vehicle that could carry more men, and have a rear exit door. Lengthening the body of the M2

resulted in one of the most commonly seen US vehicles of World War II.

 

The M3 series of half-tracks.Tamiya has modeled three variations of this important vehicle. The original kit is the M3A2,

kit number MM 170A on my box but released later with their newer numbering system as 35070, produced in the early 1970s.

Next up is the M16 Multiple Gun Motor carriage, kit 35081 from 1976. Finally there is the M21 81mm Mortar Carrier, kit 35083,

from the same year. Since all three are very similar I’ve chosen to review them all together. The original kit, the M3A2, has been

has been criticized by modelers as being inaccurate. This is only partly justified. It is a relatively accurate model, for its day,

but of a variation of half-track that did not see combat. Recognizing the need to simplify production of the proven M3 series of

vehicles, the army made a number of modifications to that half-track which then became the M3A2. By the time these changes

had been made the army realized they had enough M2 and M3 series vehicles, along with license built M4 and M5 models,

and so the need for the M3A2 disappeared. Why Tamiya chose to model this relatively unknown vehicle is a mystery.

They did realize that many modelers would want to model the more common M3A1 so the instructions include tips on how

to do this. Basically the armored shield to the .50 machine gun mount would have to be cut down somewhat, the ladders

on the sides of the kit have to be removed, and the storage racks on the rear deck. More on these last two items in the section

on the M21.

 

All three kits are molded in Tamiya’s typical dark green plastic, except for the black rubber tracks and tires. Three sprues,

A, B, and D, are common to all three kits. The kits also include a small piece of clear plastic for the windshield. The decals

are common for Tamiya, relatively heavy carrier film, but well printed. They are rather boring, having just basic US stars,

either the star or the star and circle, unit insignias, and id numbers. No personalized names for any of the vehicles.

The M16 and M21 are given markings for post WWII as well as during the war, but they do not indicate which units they

represent. On the whole I’m disappointed in the decals, and will look for more colorful markings.

 

The three common sprues include the wheels and tracks, suspension and running gear, and the entire front driver’s

compartment, with driver.  More on the driver later. The truck frame is well done, with various springs, exhaust, muffler, etc.

No engine is included, just the lower oil pan. The one really poor item in the kit is the very crudely done idler wheel for

the tracked drive. It is solid and doesn’t look at all like the relatively fragile looking original. I have not done so but according

to Saul Garcia’s review on Track-Link the replacement resin or brass wheels are so fragile the tight Tamiya tracks can damage them.

This is a shame because it’s the tracked drive unit that really makes this vehicle distinctive. More than anything else this is

an area where I hope DML or Trumpeter should be able to improve on Tamiya. Anybody interested in scratch building one

of the more unusual half-track modifications, like the M15 that had a single 37mm AA gun and two .50 machine guns, in a

large turret, can use just these three sprues as a basis for the conversion. Besides the rear compartment each kit has a unique

front bumper. On the M3A2 this is the large roller assembly, used to help the truck not get stuck in ditches.

 

The M16 has the winch assembly. The M21 has, to me, the most interesting front bumper being the winch assembly, with a

spare tire and extra storage boxes. The spare is plastic, unlike the rubber main tires. These bumpers are interchangeable on

the three kits except on the M3A2 there are some tow hooks that have mounting plates that need to be removed for the other two.

 

Obviously each kit has a different rear compartment. The M3A2 has the rear passenger seating area. Since this is a M3A2, and

not the more common M3A1, as I mentioned above, it has scaling ladders molded into the sides and also rear cargo racks.

I have seen some mention on the Internet that what I call scaling ladders are in fact just racks to hang equipment from.

I’ve seen them called both things and I’ll stick to calling them ladders. You can try to remove these but a simpler remedy is to

swap the sides and rear from the M21 with those on the M3A2, and vice versa. Strangely enough the few M21s made had the

ladders and rear racks, although Tamiya chose not to model their kit this way. All you will then have to do is remove some

molded in lines on the inside of the exterior sides, where the floor units line up. This might make it a bit harder to line up the

floors, but it’s doable, and certainly easier than trying to remove the molded in ladders. The M16 has the quad .50 machine

gun with extra ammo cans. Finally the M21 has a very reasonable looking 81mm mortar that can be mounted either in the

truck or in a portable mount. The mortar compartment also has extra storage of mortar rounds, plus some loose rounds,

both in and out of packing containers. For some reason a fine bazooka is also included, with extra rounds for it as well.

 

All in all the molding on all three kits is good, with little or no flash. There are several larger pin ejector marks on the inside

of the rear compartment sides, but internal storage and such hide them fairly effectively.  The non skid floor detail on each kit

is adequate, especially considering the age of the kits. The one really bad thing is the badly detailed idler, as mentioned.

Each kit has a different set of figures, except they all share the same driver. The M21 has another right arm for the driver

included on one of the unique sprues for that kit. This arm makes him look like he’s holding something to his head, or

perhaps plugging his ear from the noise of the mortar. It’s kind of strange though that his left arm is still draped casually

over the window sill. The M16 and M21 also share a figure operating the field radio. The M3A2 has the most interesting

group of soldiers, most of which are in relaxed posses. One figure on the M3A2 is walking stiffly alongside and looks

totally out of place. As Tim Streeter writes on Modeling the US Army, "Frankly he looks like he got kicked out of the

halftrack for eating too many beans" The M16 has a unique driver as well as the common driver from the other kits.

This figure is looking back over his shoulder, probably at an approaching aircraft. Also in this kit is a ¾ figure manning

the guns. You can’t see his lower legs anyway so this is no big deal. Finally the M21 has a two man mortar unit, one man

dropping a round down the barrel, while the other crouches holding his ears. These figures are typical quality for the 70s.

They can be brought up to more current standards if you replace the heads, weapons, and equipment with more modern

offerings. Unfortunately since the heads are molded on you’ll need to get out your small guillotine to remove the heads.

At least they are US figures, which is something. The figure set for the M3A2 has also been released separately as the US

Assault Infantry set. The mortar team is also included in the Gun and Mortar set. Besides the minor issues I’ve mentioned

these are enjoyable kits to have. They can be modified in a number of ways. You can have the doors opened or closed,

windshield cover up or down, and on the M16 have the side flaps up, for traveling, or down for fighting. The basic vehicles

were used by many nations in different wars.

 

One very useful upgrade kit is Tamiya’s own Allied Accessory kit. This gives a number of options as to the extra storage

that is so distinctive on US halftracks. Other manufacturers also have upgrade kits such as an engine or additional storage.

One easy fix is to replace the machine gun, or guns, from the very good Academy machine gun kit. Now that both DML and

Trumpeter have announced their own versions of these important vehicles these kits will probably be relegated to the

spares box. That said they pose an interesting challenge for people wanting to hone their modeling skills. They can be

an interesting model on your shelf.

M32 review by Rodger Cole (photos soon)

With the announced re-release of the Italeri M32 ARV I though there might be some interest in the original kit. Like most

Italeri kits it has both pros and cons but is generally a good value, as long as you don’t pay too much.

The United States Army saw the need for an armored, fully tracked, recovery vehicle to be used to recover tanks and

other vehicles, sometimes under fire. Originally they went with a modification of the M3 Lee tank, called the M31 ARV,

for armored recovery vehicle. It was with this vehicle that early armored divisions went to war. Later the M4 Sherman

tank was used for this modification, with the resulting vehicle being known as the M-32. There were a number of

variations of the M32, based on which M4 was used for the conversion. This kit actually portrays the M32B1, being

based on the M4A1 cast hull Sherman. According to Steven Zaloga in US Armored Divisions, The European Theater

of Operations 1944-45, the M32 was primarily used in armored divisions formed later in the war, in late 1944.

This kit is ancient. There is no indication of when it was built but my guess is it’s at least 30 years old. Both Italeri

and Testors have released it, with my kit being the Italeri No 203.

 

Anybody who has looked at any of the Italeri or Testors Sherman based vehicles will probably recognize many of

the aspects of this kit. It has all the good and bad features modelers have come to expect from Italeri.

The kit consists of three sprues of dark green plastic, along with "rubber band" tracks, and a small decal sheet.

The first negative aspect of this kit one notices is the very hard type of plastic Italeri used at this time. This plastic is

very hard to sand and work with, though it can be done. I haven’t been able to find out the type of plastic Italeri is

using on the re-released kit.

 

Compared to Tamiya Sherman kits the lower part of this kit is the best part. Unlike many Tamiya kits where there

are motorization holes in the lower hull, and absolutely no detail, this kit has no holes, and at least some detail,

though I can’t vouch for how accurate it is. This is spoiled to some extent by having Italeri’s logo and name molded

into the plastic, but at least this can be sanded off. The suspension is articulated so if you are modeling a diorama

on rough terrain you can position the road wheels easily at different heights. The lower hull does have one huge

advantage over Tamiya Shermans in that it has horizontal pieces on it to cover the bottoms of the sponsons.

You don’t have to resort to plastic sheets to hide this area. One really big disappointment in Italeri kits is the tracks.

The fact they are "rubber band" type is all right, but they are molded in a very stiff plastic that is nearly impossible

to deal with. Most modelers will want to replace these with just about any other Sherman type track on the market.

On my earlier Priest kit I had to resort to stapling the ends of the tracks together and then hiding this area.

Otherwise the tracks are so tight they can easily snap off either the idler wheels, or the drive sprockets, or both.

 

The upper hull represents the cast hull of the M32B1. One major disappointment with the kit is the cast hull as

absolutely no cast texture on it, even though the photo on the box seems to indicate it does. One thing that Italeri

is famous, or infamous for, is how they indicate where pieces are supposed to go by having raised lines molded

into the plastic. This is done in a number of areas on the kit, lower hull, turret, upper hull, etc. Ironically the lines

on the lower hull show where items used in the Priest kit, but not this kit, are supposed to go.

 

The major difference between this kit and other Italeri Sherman kits is the large a-frame crane, along with

heavy-duty tow hooks, equipment boxes, and spare parts such as road wheels, drive sprockets, and return rollers.

The crane is shown in the instructions as being able to be mounted toward the rear, as in traveling or towing, or

facing forward such as when being used to lift something. The instructions though don’t make very clear exactly

how this crane should be rigged, or positioned except when facing aft. One other piece of equipment is apparently

a kind of track chock, to stop the vehicle from moving when lifting something heavy. This is shown as positioned

on the rear hull area, but for diorama builders there is a photo insert showing it being used under the track.

 

The drivers and bow gunners hatches have separate handles on the outside, along with periscope covers, but no

interior detail. The same is true for the split hatch on the turret roof. Through the large opening for the machine

gun mount is seen the turret floor, with a very basic grating surface, two seats, two fire extinguishers, a number

of un-named boxes, along with what looks like larger tool boxes. One of the decals is used in this area to show

a first aid kit. All of the doors for the engine and storage boxes are molded in place, along with the gas filler caps,

which limits the detail in these areas.

 

I am no "rivet counter" but I should point out that this kit doesn’t really represent a true WWII M32, at least as far

as I’ve been able to determine. Cast hull Shermans had two styles of driver/co-driver hatches, small and large.

Since Italeri basically chose to use the hull from their M4A1 kit, which has accurate large hatches for that version,

they used the same hatches on this kit. Unfortunately actual M32B1 ARVs used in WWII had the small style hatch.

If you want to make a truly accurate WWII M32B1 you might consider using the hull from the DML early M4A1.

For myself I just want a M32 that looks like an M32 to all but the most critical viewers. I’ll build it as is. The other

potential inaccuracy is the mounting of two pieces of drive sprocket on the turret. The pictures of M32s I’ve seen

have these sprockets mounted on a rack on the hull side. Other than these two mistakes it appears this kit should

certainly look like a real M32.

 

The instructions are a major area where this kit is below standards. The history of the vehicle is given in one small

paragraph, in six languages. The instructions show two photos of the completed model, along with two photos of

a real M32, and various drawings showing how to build the kit. While the instructions are clear enough anybody

used to recent Tamiya offerings will find them basic in the extreme. The painting guide consists of calling out for

black, white, gun metal, silver, red, and olive drab, with no indication of which brands or paint numbers to use.

There is only one vehicle portrayed in the kit, with decals consisting of two white US stars, serial numbers, and a

identification number, 21A A-1. 21A would normally mean 21st army but I don’t believe there was such a

formation in WWII. Perhaps it’s supposed to mean 21st army group? There are also several red crosses and white

stencils with most being shown as not being used.

 

All in all I find this an interesting kit that should be fun to make. It has many applications is dioramas. It can be

shown lifting an engine out of a vehicle, towing a vehicle, or just sitting in a rear area supply and maintenance yard.

It has its faults, but they are out weighed by the fact it’s the only game in town as far as building this important WWII

vehicle other than by converting an existing kit. I am waiting for a review of the re-released kit to see if Italeri has

corrected the poor plastic, the terrible tracks, and the instructions. Time will tell as far as that goes.

 

I’d like to take this chance to vent my current gripe about Italeri. I have many of their older kits and I feel they are

very good value for the money. They tend to make kits that the "big boys" like Tamiya and DML overlook. They are

also reasonably priced for what you get, sometimes as much as half the price of comparable Tamiya kits. This seems

to be ancient history now. The newer kits, such as the Crusader AA, and re-released kits, such as the M32, are much

higher priced than previous Italeri kits. I got my M32 in a trade, but it’s not uncommon to find them on eBay for about $20.

The released kit is closer to $35. For not much more than that you can get newer DML kits, of better quality and with more

options. All in all I think Italeri might be shooting themselves in the foot with their new pricing structure.